This link to Jegs is for a complete shim kit for the Hitachi and GM starter, there or other versions for other branded starters that accomplish the same thing and to a high degree will interchange without too much headache:ģ.You're like a lot of us here, incurably infected with a fascinating, diverse hobby that can never be fully learned, and that keeps our minds healthy and active even when we're resting. This is the most common method of doing this as starter motors are service items for which splitting the transmission’s bellhousing from the engine is impractical every time a starter needs service or replacement.ģ. Third is using the circular motor shim to move the motor assembly backward from the motor mounting block to establish the needed face to face clearance between the pinion and the ring gear. Having not checked this, proceed to the next dash.
Second is that this clearance can be tested before mating the transmission and adjusted with shims between the crank flange and the flex plate.
First is the caution that the flex plate is not successfully installed backwards. The depth of engagement requires that the pinion in its parked position is not in contact with the ring gear.
In between is that sweet spot where engagement is smooth as is retraction of the pinion.Ģb. At the other extreme the engagement may be so shallow that cranking on the outer edge of the teeth may break them. If too tight the pinion just spins against the forward edge of ring gear making a lot of noise but not engaging to turn the crankshaft. It should be considered that the tooth crown to root clearance must first be sufficient that the solenoid can insert the pinion into the ring gear. The other and less commonly understood is the insertion travel distance of the pinion into ring gear. It is this distance of the crown to root of the engaged teeth for which you are looking for the fabled paper clip clearance.Ģa. The long mounting bolt to bolt shim sets the vertical distance of the starter pinion to the ring gear. I appreciate the help and the input gents!!!Īpparently not many are aware that there are two shim operations.ġ. It’s going to be a pain in the *** to remove transmission and flexplate ( it was hard to get flexplate in, I’m afraid taking it out will be painful, suggestions/recommendations are very welcomed!!!). I wanted to check if someone has run into this issue in the past, I haven’t seen any cases like this, and I’m quite curious. I repeat, I’m almost sure 100% the flywheel is correctly installed.Īny ways, I have 3 shims to space flywheel from crank and each is about. I verified the float between the torque converter and flywheel and it’s huge, way out of spec (about 1/2”). My problem was that I’ve had the mini starter bendix hard touching the flywheel without energizing the solenoid (1/8” axial shim in the kit installed). I have installed it with the right orientation,flexplate weight facing engine and flexplate’s to torque converter high surfaces facing torque converter. I bought a 383 Stroker from a reputable company and it came with an externally balanced flywheel. So after several days and hours dwelling over the clearance II she’s in having with my flexplate I believe I will have to shim it.